Giuliano Calza took the virality of the ‘what’s in my bag’ trend and turned the concept into a 10th anniversary Spring/Summer 2026 show for GCDS, a brand he has creatively directed since its establishment alongside his brother, Giordano Calza, in 2015. This was Calza’s first show after a one-year hiatus away from the Milan Fashion Week schedule; perhaps that’s why everything feels even more timely. Standing apart from the more classic Milanese landscape, a decade is quite a milestone for a playful and bold label like GCDS, which has steadily garnered a devoted cult following.
From inside a gigantic GCDS logo shopping bag that slid into a mall-inspired show space crafted by local Italian artisans, models strutted straight onto the catwalk. With a nod to the brand’s early shows without fully leaning into nostalgia, Calza presented a celebratory collection that blended daywear with more elaborate, sexy pieces. Denim-and-T-shirt combos evolved to leather and see-through dresses, often paired with tall boots and sky-high platform heels.
Versatile enough to appeal to OG brand fans and attract a new customer base, there was enough to play into the label’s signature codes inside Calza’s GCDS bag. Cheek and fun, of course, were the show’s driving force. Ruffled mini dresses shared the space with lingerie-inspired pieces, from corseted high-cut bodysuits worn over trousers to slips with lace trims and animal print. Speaking of the latter, python-patterned faux leather was a fundamental collection trait, crafted from a real rainbow of shades and seen on clothing, footwear, and handbags.
Calza never fails to remind us why fashion also means enjoyment, which is reflected in his accessory design and strong choice of vibrant colours. Keeping the brand's spirit afloat, baby tees with Betty Boop prints, Hello Kitty dresses and tops, and cat-shaped bags respected its original, long-life motto of creating fashion items as captivating as toys for adults.
A range of sparkling asymmetrical dresses and pencil skirts made for partygoers and stage queens, already a GCDS celebrity favourite, conveyed the label’s inherent sexiness, while polka-dotted pieces, either structured and voluminous or transparent and cheeky, reinforced the brand’s signature boldness stamp.
With a penchant for doing things differently, Calza made the whole collection available right after the show, bringing back the ‘see now, buy now’ format, popular during the 2010s. If it’s up to GCDS, the next ten years will be flirty, colourful, and a lot of fun.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
