For JORDANLUCA Fall/Winter 2024 show, Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto tapped into their respective heritage to weave references together, merging Italian tailoring with nods to subcultures and punk Britishness. From the techno soundtrack to the industrial location, the tone is set: it will be a celebration – a rave or a birthday party perhaps? Balloons featuring artworks from Dominic Myatt fill the room and act as the starting point of the narrative. Indeed, balloons are synonyms of nostalgia, an object linked to childhood memories, a fragile momentum which quickly vanishes as they pop or fly away. Here, they inform us that the party is over, but hope remains.

The show is opened by impeccable tailored silhouettes. The strictness of those looks is balanced by details borrowed from British subcultures. Cufflinks are dangerously spiky and trousers can be unzipped all the way to the back, while some are fully backless. As the show progresses, tailoring fades away as rave staple looks appear. A leather coat paired with leather boots is modelled by a mohawked Andreas Kronthaler, Vivienne Westwood’s partner and current creative director. Circular cutouts on the garments are mirroring the polka dots from the balloons. The silhouettes are oozing nods to subcultures, rough around the edges, but the mood of the collection isn't dark. It’s a party after all. JORDANLUCA invite us to live in the now with a collection filled with cultural references. London meets Milan, resulting in an ode to the outcasts, to vulnerability.

Words by Marien Brandon

JORDANLUCA FW24

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