External inspiration is expected in any given collection. Just this menswear season, we've had JW Anderson’s take on Eyes Wide Shut, Emporio Armani’s allusions to transatlantic travel, and even Gucci referencing their last womenswear collection. Even so, Kenzo’s Fall/Winter 2024 point of reference was surprising, drawing inspiration from the Star Wars saga.

If the previous statement conjures up images of copyrighted characters on printed jerseys, one will need to be blindly unaware of Nigo’s work. For his fifth collection for Kenzo, the Japanese designer was inspired not by the iconography of the films but by the methodology of its costume design. Drawing inspiration from Eastern Asian garments, the reference points for its costumes were masterfully blurred.

Echoing this approach, Nigo sought to infuse historic Japanese garments into Kenzo’s offerings without summoning immediate comparisons. Firefighter uniforms from the Edo Period transformed into cleverly geometric prints. Rigid denim suits replicated the style of Japanese school uniforms. Karakusa prints were abstracted into embroideries on bags.

At times, and particularly with the few womenswear looks sprinkled throughout the collection, the source material is more evident. Gold catsuits were worn underneath dresses, teasing a C-3PO reference. Heavy brown robes draw immediate comparisons to Jedi uniforms. Ultimately, the collection was a sophisticated take on Kenzo’s usual offerings, projecting an exciting future for the brand’s legacy.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

KENZO FW24

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