Maintaining the standard he has set for himself, Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a Valentino menswear show that revolved around the colour of the sky. Appropriately named Le Ciel, the collection reflects on the changing ideals of masculinity.

Initially most closely associated with femininity, blue has grown to be the identifying colour of the male gender. For Valentino’s menswear Fall/Winter 2024 show, Piccioli once again utilizes colour to deepen the meaning of clothes. Vibrant hues serve to subvert traditional masculinity in clever ways.

Before the introduction of the theme that centres the collection, the Italian designer started with multiple monochromatic black looks. Following its main inspiration, colour started to gradually appear on the catwalk. First, just as a pop of pink but eventually, as the sun rose, intense burgundies are paired with light pastel shades. Masterfully blending hues, looks that complement muted lilacs with deep reds stand out.

Eventually, as the show progresses, the protagonist appears. Shy at first, present only in turtlenecks, blue takes the main stage towards the middle of the collection. Before we know it, vibrant iterations of the shade possess entire looks, from sparkly oversized polo shirts to sailor collar knits.

Vivid turtlenecks hide behind tailoring. Unexpected sparkles monopolize Harrington jackets. The “Altorilievo” technique introduced in the last womenswear collection is revived in a grey coat. In a show that tackles the complexities of modern masculinity, subverting suiting was a clear priority.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

VALENTINO FW24

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