Online, in the infinite number of times the Loewe show has already been shared just hours after its runway debut, someone made a particularly pointed observation: “In a Loewe show, there are always about six ideas that would’ve been the best idea in someone else’s show.” Therein lies Jonathan Anderson’s success at Loewe—not just the sheer amount of creativity he exudes, but the harmony with which he pairs those ideas.

Despite the abundance of concepts, this season, Anderson aimed for reduction—an intention carried over from his namesake label earlier in the fashion month. This time, the idea was explored through silhouette work. With his signature absurdist take on fashion, Anderson freeze-frames fleeting moments with wired rigidity. A long leather coat flares open at the hem like the pages of a book. Khaki skirts remain mysteriously parallel to the floor. Looping hems add peculiar structure to otherwise flowy dresses as if they had been frozen mid-spin. The circular nature of these elements serves as a thematic throughline this season—even the show’s venue was a circle.

Unsurprisingly, Anderson is reflecting on the concept of cycles—this collection, after all, marks his 10th anniversary as creative director at Loewe. While we didn’t get a retrospective of his work—for that, you’ll have to visit the house’s exhibition, set to tour the world next year—the show was a clear representation of his vision for the brand. Watchful eyes were made to question everything in front of them. Unassuming T-shirts featuring famous artists appear simple at first, but on closer inspection, printed feathers reveal an almost comedic complexity. This is perhaps the best way to describe Anderson’s tenure at Loewe: serious design that’s never taken too seriously.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LOEWE SS25

TBT_BTB_ARchive

// LATEST //