For his sophomore collection, Seán McGirr tightened his approach at McQueen. If last season—when the designer famously had only a few months to create a collection—offered an expansive interpretation of the brand’s biggest hits, Spring/Summer 2025 provides a more focused glimpse into his vision for the house. Rather than playing off several tropes, McGirr laser-focused on Lee McQueen’s tailoring prowess.

The S-bend became the central source of inspiration. One of the legendary designer’s iconic staples, McGirr reinterpreted it through a rolled lapel silhouette, which appeared in multiple impeccably tailored suits. The silhouettes—featuring powerfully angular shoulders and cinched waists—were undeniably mouthwatering. Other signature elements were reimagined, such as the bumster, whose extravagance was tempered by mesh panels, and material opulence reminiscent of Sarah Burton’s era at the brand, showcased in oversized fur coats and voluminous distressed skirts.

The show ended in a climactic moment that evoked the spirit of Lee McQueen’s original showmanship—Spring/Summer 1999 is forever etched in our memory. A true showpiece, crystalized threads contoured the model's body, the excess of which dangled from her arms and almost engulfed her head. Oh, to be consumed by crystal.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

MCQUEEN SS25

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