For Prada Spring/Summer 2025, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons gave us exactly what we wanted. In a light, youthful collection, the duo translated the formula that has made Prada’s sister brand so successful. Miu Miu’s offbeat youthfulness is immaculately conveyed through shrunken silhouettes, disturbingly vibrant colours, and an expected intellectual backing.

The show opened as most Prada shows do, with a fun twist. A little white house built on a platform lit up as the venue dimmed, pulsating both light and sound. Eventually, morning came, and models paraded down from the house onto the runway.

Immediately, crumpled and colourful knits set the tone. Shirts were folded and wrinkled in odd ways. Oversized leather coats had awkwardly short sleeves. Shrunken sweaters and a cropped nylon jacket revealed the models' waists. Trompe-l’œil was a constant, from polo collars on knitwear to light cotton trousers printed to resemble heavy wool.

The most striking part of the collection was undoubtedly the twisted collars, built through wires hidden in shirt seams. Prada’s Fall/Winter 2023 exaggerated collars were revisited in crumpled shapes. The uncanny playfulness trickled down to trousers, most with belts placed below the waistline, sewn into the trousers to sit centimetres away from their natural standing line.

These small details are little crumbs—oh, how we love to be fed by Mrs. Prada. Titled Closer the powerhouse design duo intentionally plays with perception. Clothes become metaphors for the need for connection. Proximity is discussed as a need, an imperative to understand human imperfection. Wrinkled clothes, ill-fitting coats, crumpled silhouettes—there’s a freedom in Prada’s planned spontaneity.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

PRADA SS25

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