The best thing about any given Saint Laurent show is the appreciation Anthony Vaccarello has for Monsieur Saint Laurent’s legacy. He understands nuance in the work of the founder of the maison he leads. At every chance he gets, he reminds us of the legendary designer’s impact – not just in fashion, but in culture at large. For Spring/Summer 2026, he articulates this legacy to deliver a particularly topical message.
The collection opens with a scenario as unlikely as it is appetising. Statuesque women with engorged, angular shoulders cruising along delicate bushes of hydrangeas. Just as in the Fall/Winter 2025 menswear collection, Robert Mapplethorpe is made a muse. Vaccarello looks to the photographer for erotic appeal. Shiny leather reflects the light as it passes by, hats tilted forward to imply interest. Of course, here, instead of the sweaty bodies hidden underneath the jackets, elegant blouses illuminate the shiny darkness with their white starchiness.
The structured shoulders and nipped-in waists are decisively ‘80s. It’s not the first time Vaccarello favours the silhouette – we would go as far as to say it’s one of the staples of his tenure at the maison. And still, despite being immediately identifiable in a time and place, it doesn’t feel dated. Not because of the silhouette’s recent popularity, or even its appeal that swerves around the trend cycle, but because Saint Laurent’s legacy is indistinguishable from 20th-century fashion. Here, the inspiration isn’t chronological; it’s self-referential.
The maison’s legacy is further explored in mousseline trenches and translucent dresses in acidic shades of chartreuse and vermillion. These harken back to some of Rive Gauche’s iconic silhouettes. The line, founded by Mr Saint Laurent, sparked the ready-to-wear revolution. Vaccarello doesn’t ask for vehemency – though we certainly do – he frames it as an important statement. The rise of conservative movements and its trad wives has made the women’s liberation movement have to reclaim its ideological grounds. Vaccarello reminds us of what YSL has always been: clothing made for independent, strong women.
The collection ends dramatically. Inspired by the Duchess of Guermantes and Madame X, the Belgian designer creates billowing gowns. A parade of jewel-toned dresses floats in the wind, as if inflated by it. Cleverly made of nylon, these are light; models move freely. Even in their regal structure, the designer finds freedom. Vaccarello doesn’t just honour the Saint Laurent legacy, he pushes it forward. He recontextualises it and reminds us of its importance.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
