For Fall/Winter 2024, Olivier Rousteing revisited some of his themes of predilections such as the Balmain Army or the house’s emblematic flower motifs. The newest iteration of the former features strong silhouettes inspired by a military wardrobe composed of trench coats and gabardine trousers in earthy tonalities. The looks remained cinched at the waist and bestowed with large shoulder pads but appeared to be more edited than in the past, while still showcasing the designer’s signature draping and sculpting techniques that transcend the realm of what is expected from a ready-to-wear collection. The floral prints are an icon of the house of Balmain and Rousteing proved himself to be a very good historian of the brand. This season, the usage of floral patterns comes with a twist as the garments are embroidered with bunches of grapes, printed with vine leaves and accessorized with cherry-shaped brooches and rhinestoned purses. There is a whole significance attached to fruits in art. Here, Balmain calls for opulence and prosperity, evoking a truly sensual imagery.
Words by Marien Brandon
