There’s something so wildly amusing about morning sex. On Wednesday morning, Courrèges held its Fall/Winter 2024 show in a sunlit room. A quiet audience listened attentively as a deafening heartbeat began, eventually met by exasperated breaths. As the models trickled in, an odd movement started. The runway's centre began propelling forward, inflated to the beat of the breath.
If there’s one thing Nicolas Di Felice’s Courrèges has accomplished, it’s branding. While the designer is tethered to the Space Age aesthetic that keeps us fashion geeks attached, an idiosyncratic sexuality is similarly omnipresent. Through Di Felice’s direction, sexiness is sought out in an intellectual manner—every design choice is made in its name. There’s no denying it, Courrèges makes even trench coats sexy.
This season, the Belgian designer expanded the textural reach of the brand’s aesthetic. Fur was a natural choice for the job. Faux fur was thrown atop classic Courrèges outerwear. But there were also intriguing drapes in flowy tops and sensual dresses. Our Space Age kink was satisfied with stiffly hooded minidresses.
The show ended diametrically opposite of where it started. In the beginning, Felice insisted on pointing out that sexiness isn't nudity — it's a matter of silhouette. By the end of the show, he caved in with skin-tight sheer tops and dresses. But even with transparency, the designer can’t help himself, adding tingling soft spikes made up of stripped feathers. Then came the climax. As the last model walked out, the music sped up, as did the floor’s protrusion until it ended up staying erect as the beat continued. Eventually, the music stopped and the mound swiftly deflated. What a great way to start the day.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
