Anthony Vaccarello has long assumed an influential role in fashion. Beyond taking on the creative control of Saint Laurent, undeniably one of the industry’s most important Maisons, the designer has proven capable of furthering its legacy. Through constant, even if subtle, references to the founder of the brand he now leads, Vaccarello creates compelling fashion.
For Fall/Winter 2024, the Belgian-Italian designer explored the brand’s history with see-through fabrics. In 1966, Monsieur Saint Laurent liberated women’s bodies, revealing a model’s breast on the runway through a sheer blouse. Now, 58 years later, Vaccarello revisits this notion, not for the sake of revolution as in the past, but as an expression of the desire to disappear.
The show opened with sheer minidresses, resembling the look and feel of stockings (coincidentally, it was stockings that adorned models’ heads). Tension was examined, as, following the barely there looks, came imposing blazers, aggressively angular at the shoulders. Exploring form and function, the looks that followed had what some might call conservative silhouettes — pussy bow blouses and pencil skirts — but all done in slinky, sexy transparencies.
The collection, which, as Vaccarello mentioned, was a direct response to his past two collections, had a familiar colour palette. Powdery beiges, elegant blacks, and interesting jewel tones all paraded down a runway encapsulated by deep green curtains.
Heavy fur coats and stunning rubber military jackets punctuated the misty approach of most of the collection. Speaking backstage, Vaccarello said, “My job is to propose something different that is not necessarily realistic or necessary.” However, he has accomplished a show that is somehow both, speaking to the current state of fashion while cementing his respect for the Maison he serves.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
