Paul Smith remains one of menswear’s enduring cool characters. More than fifty years after launching his eponymous label, the English designer continues to inject classic tailoring with a sense of surprise — and his Fall/Winter 2026 collection, presented in Milan, proved that his formula still hits with precision.
This season, Smith introduced a compelling tension between tradition and edge, layering technical fabrics and leather accents onto familiar wardrobe staples. A light grey nylon coat was styled over a cobalt blue knitted polo, while a black leather overshirt emerged subtly beneath a chocolate-brown blazer. The interplay of texture and colour kept the silhouettes grounded yet charged.
Accessories played a defining role. Nylon trousers were secured with bold belts featuring Western-inspired buckles, while voluminous wool slacks leaned into rock ’n’ roll territory with eyelet-studded designs. The details felt deliberate — never loud, but impossible to ignore.
The collection’s rebellious streak carried confidently into eveningwear. A classic three-button suit jacket was reimagined with utilitarian chest pockets, blurring the line between tailoring and function. Elsewhere, a relaxed double-breasted suit in a rich navy hue was softened by a printed necktie, lending ease to an otherwise commanding look.
Words by Martin Onufrowicz
