Stockholm-based label Acne Studios showcased its Spring/Summer 2026 collection at the 13th-century Gothic church Collège des Bernardins, transformed into a moody cigar salon featuring artworks by Pacifico Silano. The show centred on themes of queer culture and gay erotica. Creative director Jonny Johansson’s multidisciplinary approach once again delivered a collection where contemporary culture and art merge to convey a deeper meaning.
Borrowing from masculine codes and accented with touches of lace, transparencies, and corsetry, the collection felt both deeply political and undeniably wearable. It presented a vision of femininity that is androgynous and deconstructed – an exploration of styles and identities. Tailored suits, reimagined for women with strong, commanding shoulders, were paired with pointed heels, creating a striking juxtaposition between self-expression and artistic exploration. Gender here was defined not as a strict norm, but as an ambiguous, fluid sensation.
Leather was spotlighted in oversized statement jackets, while wide trousers and tailored coats were softened by flowing fabrics in neutral shades of beige, cream, and grey. Transparency brought an erotic yet delicate edge – sheer skirts, lace overlays, and translucent trousers contrasted with the weight of masculine tailoring. Eclectic styling – mixing checks with sheer skirts or distressed denim, and blending casual pieces with formal wear – reinforced the sense of deconstruction, freedom, and controlled chaos. Altogether, the collection evoked a desire to dismantle traditional gender norms. Each look reinterprets feminine and masculine codes, transforming them into pieces designed for everyday life and the everyday person. Far from complicated constructions, the designs are straightforward in form, yet styled to reflect the house’s distinctive artistic DNA.
Words by Carolina Benjumea
