In a world as subjective as that of fashion, there are a couple of objective truths. One of them is that Pieter Mulier’s tenure at Alaïa ushered the maison beyond its founder’s myth and into the industry of today. One consequence of such a system is its infamous game of chairs. It’s no surprise, then, that the brand has been depleted of its second creative director. After the announcement earlier in the year that the Belgian designer would part ways with the house, the world collectively sighed. How are we to live without Mulier’s Alaïa, that, season after season, delivered collections capable of bringing any fashion lover to tears?
Fall/Winter 2026 marks his swan song. Thankfully, he resists the urge to simply do a retrospective of his looks, choosing instead to touch on the cornerstones of his philosophy. Instead of pompous ideas, Mulier returned to the shape that commanded Azzedine Alaïa: the female figure. Tight dresses sit perfectly on the body, with but two seams alongside the models’ upper hips. The technique was seen on short, boat-necked dresses, as well as long-sleeved iterations that clung to the models’ legs as they walked. Eventually, that cut’s precision grew into sharply tailored coats, made to fit impeccably, staying close to the body without ever restricting it.
Movement was a muse of both Alaïa and Mulier. Here, tiered coats created geometric bustles at the hips, swaying gently. The show ended with tiered dresses, the skirts of which were neatly pleated, each careful fold contributing to their mesmerising flow.
In perhaps one of the most touching moments of the night – which is saying a lot – guests arrived to find white booklets in their seats. On each of its pages was a picture of a member of Mulier’s team. Refuting the myth of the sole genius responsible for the brand's success, the designer quite literally put a face to everyone responsible for an astounding tenure. And, with no successor announced (or even rumoured, which is quite a rarity these days), this will be the face of the people creatively leading the brand for the time being. It’s safe to say the legacy Mulier built is in good hands.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
