Home is where the heart is, but domestic life isn’t always rosy. Acne Studios’ Jonny Johansson takes domestic codes and flips them on their head for the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. In his collaboration with Philadelphia-based artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase, who created the custom homeware and decor at l’Observatoire de Paris, the designer shows that home is at the centre of the inspiration for this offering.

As the models start to file down the runway, we hear a vibrant soundtrack produced by Mun Sing and we’re ready to take it all in. Knitwear-clad models have slightly dishevelled slick hair, as if they got caught in the stormy Parisian weather. While cardigans are still around this season, this time they’re layered, tied around the shoulders and waist, or worn as bottoms.

Office wear is reimagined in voluminous shapes – through leather suits or green and grey crocodile inflated blazers – whilst moussy skinny trousered suits close the show. Everyday domestic accents are sprinkled into each look with boots in floral print, waxed floral garden gloves, and tartan blazers imitating upholstery. Denim is still around, this time in sets and capacious inflated jeans that almost give a cartoony surrealist feel to the collection.

The eye is definitely in the detail as Johansson plays with the idea of draped and layered curtains in the dresses, and moth-eaten felt cardigans, sweater vests and dresses add to the home scenery of the show. The collection also feels like an ode to childhood at home where dresses and overalls are two sizes too big and tied at the shoulders, polka dots add an extra fun flair and blue and red crochet sets remind us of the doilies our grandmas kept on the wooden dining table. The re-imagination of household objects and domestic prints is à la fois subtle and incredibly loud, the wistfulness of the collection indicating that nostalgia can be worn and reimagined into clothing.

Words by Gabrielle Valda Colas

ACNE STUDIOS SS25

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