“My body is not a product. It’s not a bargaining chip,” graphic words fill the venue of Christian Dior’s Spring Summer 2024 runway show. “I am not a space between your pages,” they continued. “I am not her,” read throughout the show, not coincidentally the name of the immersive video collage created by the artist Elena Bellantoni. Similarly, to the images that framed it, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection was an analysis of femininity and feminism.
In contrast with the LED walls that contained the show, powerfully illuminated in shades of pink and yellow, the collection’s color palette was undoubtedly neutral. Black and white pieces were only broken up by the occasional beige in the shape of pleated skirts and tailored suits.
Throughout the 78 look collection, there were quite a few standouts. From blurred Paris city maps to X-ray versions of the iconic Mille-fleurs, the prints featured in dresses and long coats were remarkable.
The collection had an overall darker and edgier feel than past Christian Dior collections, frequently evoking the imagery of witchcraft. A midi skirt and oversized jacket set appeared to be burned off at the edges, a nod to the fires that burned the witches of the past. Full-length lace gowns possess a vintage appeal that somehow appeals to the supernatural. The message is clear. Maria Grazia Chiuri is addressing the patriarchy directly.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
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