It's customary that the Eiffel Tower illuminates the Saint Laurent show but for the Spring Summer 2024 show, Catherine Devenue’s voice articulated it. The actress’ voice reverberated through the marble venue as the collection was shown. Devenue’s presence is inferential in a show that heavily references Yves Saint Laurent’s take on femininity. The actress and the designer had a long-lasting friendship.

Following the steps of Saint Laurent himself, Anthony Vaccarello presented a reflection on unapologetic strong femininity. The show opened with a pair of boiler suits that prophesied a collection filled with utilitarian-inspired garments. The iconic safari jacket was reconfigured under Vaccarello’s vision, with a looser fit and cinched with a powerful leather belt. The collection was inspired by women in male-dominated fields. A fact that became wildly apparent when aviator inspired fits drifted down the runway.

As the show concluded, softer silhouettes and transparent textures appeared, diversifying the collection’s range. Even through completely distinct pieces, there was a unifying undertone, a slightly austere aesthetic — a departure from last season’s exaggerated power suits.

The accessories contrasted with the more restrained pieces. Geometric earrings that mixed gold and silver were ostentatious. Sky-high heels complemented deliciously supple leather gloves, proving that, to the Saint Laurent woman, elegance and strength are synonymous.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

SAINT LAURENT SS24

TBT_BTB_ARchive

// LATEST //