A gigantic white staircase lights up as the Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2025 show is about to begin. Down it descends a model wearing a black blindfold, a simple sweater, and voluminous balloon pants resembling a ball skirt. And while the initial shock of a blindfolded model walking down steep stairs subsides, the dramatic silhouette leaves a lasting impression. Little did we know, that was merely the opening look of one of the season's most remarkable collections. Kim Jones, now eight years into his tenure, presented one of the most impressive offerings of his career.

Devoid of colour or pattern for the most part, the collection primarily featured black, grey and muted pink. His historically consistent focus on streetwear was transformed—adapted into a matter of silhouette rather than logos. Simple leather cropped jackets were impeccably cut.

The collection’s success lay not only in its aesthetic impact but also in its depth, which reached back to the house’s earliest codes. It drew inspiration from Monsieur Dior’s H-line collection of Fall/Winter 1954. Now, 71 years later, Jones reinvents those codes, abstracting them into modern tailoring. The show serves as a seamless extension of his most recent experiments. Jones has long flirted with the idea of what a menswear couture line might look like, and his latest collection feels like a definitive conclusion. Mostly forgoing haute couture’s classic extravagance—visible only in subtle crystal embroideries (the final look being the exception)—Jones distills the art of couture into tailoring, using it to craft shapes that exist simultaneously in the past and the future.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

DIOR HOMME FW25

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