Set inside the Parisian art deco apartment designed by Auguste Perret, Simon Porte Jacquemus presented one of the most grown-up collections for his eponymous label to date. Presented by a line-up of supermodels (Christy Turlington! Doutzen Kroes! Eva Herzigova!) in a haute couture salon-like matter, the Spring 2025 offering was rich in old-world elegance.

The show opened with a string of looks featuring cocoon-like coats and voluminous skirts. The feeling of sophistication was further mastered in the ensemble worn by Alex Consani – an oversized feather coat, which evoked the glamour of Truman Capote’s “Swans”. Looks were accessorised with ladylike bags and shoes – long leather clutches and kitten heels. But because this is a Jacquemus show that we’re talking about, the signature sexy touch was not lost. Floor-length gowns in black and red, though appearing demure from the front, featured slits on the side cut low enough to give a peek of the underwear. Leather corset belts cinched both womenswear and menswear looks, and the shortest of shorts were paired with blazers, jackets and coats.

As the models walked the final time to Mon Dieu by Edith Piaf, Jacquemus’ intention for the season was clear – this spring, we’re channelling the ladies (and gentlemen) who lunch, and have a lot of joy doing so!

Words by Martin Onufrowicz

JACQUEMUS SS25

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