“LGN.” “LGN.” “LGN.” A repetitive hymn blasts from the speakers at the—you guessed it—LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi show. The track, part anthem, part gay bar background music, is lovely but not necessary. There’s no way we could mistake the collection before us. After eight years at the helm of his namesake label, Nouchi has established a visual identity like no other: classic masculine silhouettes contrasted by skin-tight sheerness. Fall/Winter 2025 was no exception.
Another of his signatures—a classic book as the thematic anchor for the collection—was, of course, present. 1984 felt like a pointed choice. In a political climate that worsens with every billionaire's speech, George Orwell’s dystopian classic resonates deeply, particularly for a brand that is not only outwardly queer but also so progressive, even within the fashion world. A diverse cast—spanning age, body type, height, and gender—reminded us of the commitments many made a few years ago but seem to have since abandoned. The sombre tone was mirrored in cocooning silhouettes, perhaps evoking the childish instinct to hide under the covers.
The straight shoulders—the only straight thing in the show—were, of course, ever-present. This time, however, they appeared in a spectrum of materials, the standout being a short fur that was to die for. Nouchi has redefined masculinity, one that, while borrowing from the aesthetics of its conservative iteration, completely subverts it.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
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