Fall/Winter 2026 marks the one-year anniversary of Julian Klausner’s official debut at Dries Van Noten. In a nothing short of a prodigious run, the designer has proved he is the right (maybe the only) choice to keep the brand’s legacy pushing forward. Unlike many, there doesn’t seem to be any ego involved in the way Klausner designs, resisting the urge to mark his territory. Instead, he utilises the house’s codes to tell meaningful and relatable narratives.
Just like the menswear show a month prior, the Belgian designer hones in on the complexities of youth. But if then he was speaking to the feeling of wagering domestic comfort for growth, here he talks of the search for ourselves in the spring of our lives. The show opened with reinterpreted school uniforms. A navy, heavy peacoat. A tailored, preppy blazer. A shirt and tie, with embroidered cuffs that contrasted gold with a crisp white. For research purposes, Klausner actually visited the same high school where the show takes place, the Lycée Carnot. Much like what he saw when the bell rang, and teenagers left the building with that frenetic, nostalgic excitement, signs of individuality started to poke through the uniform.
17th-century still life of a peach appeared first in a long skirt, then in a belted parka, followed by green plaids and prints of floral arrangements. These same ones gradually became pixelated on embellished skirts and new bags. The pixelation of print, only for it to become clear again, to then have both mixed in incredible embroidered dresses, illustrates the volatile nature of growing. Today we see ourselves clearly, tomorrow we don’t recognise ourselves. The mix of material and texture on single garments spoke to a similar feeling. A beautifully patterned, ochre coat has knit grey sleeves.
Knitwear was particularly strong in colourful jumpers with contrasting long scarves, the combination and volume of which reminds us of early school mornings – combinations born out of necessity. Other standouts included satin puffer jackets with floral patterns.
The story Klausner weaves is clear, and so is his motivation. He has made it a habit to draw from feelings that, in their uniqueness, are pretty much universal. Plus, one has to wonder if, in what is his fifth collection for the house, he’s finding new ways to relate to his youth. In the spring of our lives, every moment is an opportunity to prove ourselves. Klausner excels at every chance he gets.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
