While some designers treat fashion as a microcosm isolated and disconnected from the state of the world, Rick Owens sees it as a means of change and reflection. Quite frequently, the Californian designer places a mirror on society to craft looks that are as current as they are forward-thinking. Tower, Owens' Fall/Winter 2026 womenswear collection, followed the title and motto of the menswear show, presented in January this year. However, this time, the collection gained an additional layer of strength.
If Spring/Summer 26 was called Temple, as in “temple of love,” then Fall/Winter was named Tower, as in “tower of light" – a much-needed “prayer for love and hope,” Owens stated. With a nod to Marlene Dietrich, a muse he had previously claimed to be fascinated by, Owens’ clothes served as armour, with the models ready to fiercely face a modern-day apocalypse.
Consistent in his aesthetic, one that famously rejects the status quo, Owens did not shy away from his signature elements. Slouchy, towering platform boots, broad square-shouldered silhouettes, and beautifully manipulated leather pieces were present in the show, all carried at the Palais de Tokyo by a troop of otherworldly-looking women, their alien beauty once again created in collaboration with Brazilian artist Bernardo Martins, known as @figa.link.
Fur, a common thread in almost every collection this season, was taken to the max here, with colossal goat hair coats appearing as both protective outerwear and statement pieces. Juxtaposed to the maxi shapes were strapless column leather dresses with pockets, as well as floor-sweeping fringed garments, a version of the latter previously seen in the men's show.
With a colour palette that resembled a Mad Max scenario, earthy tones dominated the lineup. Hints of bright blue, acid yellow, lilac, blush, and even patterned pieces in black-and-white and white-and-blue stood out. Ultra-high collars, shielding capes and coats, cocooning pieces, and full leather looks in matching jackets and shorts, the material manipulated to create a structure capable of floating out of the body, contributed to Owens’ typical dystopian drama.
With elven ears, long feathered lashes, claw-looking stiletto nails and the coolest hair and makeup in tow, there’s a reason why everyone wants to be part of the Rick Owens crowd. The main one being contradiction – his characters only seem intimidating at first; they are actually very welcoming.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
