A brand responding to the political climate isn’t uncommon—it’s expected. The need to morally connect with their audience is becoming increasingly prevalent. However, what Egonlab presented for their Fall/Winter 2025 show doesn’t feel like a business move but rather a clever, whimsical metaphor for a dark reality. Appropriately named S4LEM, the collection, created by Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix, is an enchanting statement. Drawing a parallel between the current witch hunt of queer people happening globally—the show coincided with Donald Trump’s inauguration ceremony—and the Salem witch trials of 1692, the creative duo delivered a collection that was as impactful as it was well-executed.

The references emerged in sophisticated ways—there was no overuse of literal witch hats. Instead, voluminous, ragged collars and cuffs on skintight cardigans struck a balance between flamboyance and goth. The rest of the collection existed between those two poles. At times, it leaned toward one edge—silk scarf long-sleeve tops felt particularly queer-coded. At others, it veered toward the sombre—long black coats and full black leather ensembles conveyed a darker tone.

Despite its strong thematic presence, the collection never felt overwhelming. Egonlab’s signature elements were still prominent: nipped-in waists, bold shoulders, and manipulated denim. Interwoven throughout the lineup, the creative duo also introduced pieces from their capsule collection with Zadig & Voltaire, most notably strappy leather bags that added an exciting touch.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

EGONLAB FW25

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