There are not enough words to express the depth of the gasp I exhaled when I saw the Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2025 collection. After last season’s unforgettable show—the official farewell of its founder—there was a sense of doom and gloom surrounding the collection. But, alas, a few weeks ago, Julian Klausner was announced as the new creative lead. And while the collection was designed solely by the Dries Van Noten studio and merely directed by Klausner, the novelty of a new designer erased any trace of somberness.

At its essence, Dries Van Noten is a joyful company. Of course, the joy wasn’t necessarily spelled out. The collection, romantic with a gloomy undertone, had its moments of glee—flowers punctuated the entire lineup.

Inspired by William Burroughs’ The Wild Boys, the visual language was rooted in a very specific time and place—in this case, Antwerp in the 19th century. Structured trench coats in wool and fur were as opulent as they were romantic. But if it’s romance one desires, a dramatic satin cape satisfies all cravings. The brand’s idiosyncratic prints also received a dark makeover.

It feels poetic for menswear to be the first collection the brand presents after Klausner’s announcement, as it was also Van Noten’s farewell. Menswear, as the narrative core of the brand, bookends its history.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

DRIES VAN NOTEN FW25

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