Hands in the pockets, preppy glasses, and loose, structured silhouettes were the centre of the Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 2026 menswear show. For this season, suits were less tailored than in past collections, giving way to a wardrobe reminiscent of the corporate chic of the ’80s and early ’90s; wide shoulders, loose garments, and distinctly manly silhouettes.
The offering was the first-ever collection to be created without Mr. Armani himself. Leo Dell'Orco's rendition of the Armani man didn’t come out of nowhere; it is the product of more than 40 years working alongside the late designer and shaping what the brand is today. The transition feels natural. The designer knows what the public seeks in the brand, and he delivered.
The silhouettes were an homage to the brand’s past, but the thread that united the collection was business-like, intellectual dressing. Dominated by a myriad of grey shades, the wardrobe seemed as though it had been taken from an ’80s Hollywood film, a period in which the Armani suit reigned supreme.
The allure of the men on the runway also felt cinematographic; their strong presence was amplified by their strong shoulders. The pieces ranged from roomy, straight silhouettes in light fabrics to loose pants with movement, double-breasted jackets worn casually, and long coats that elongated the body.
Velvet was a big part of the show, breaking the monotony of the looks and giving a luxurious feel. In forest green, navy, graphite, and black, the pieces reflected the light of the runway, creating a sumptuous and lavish mirage. Colours were not contrasting each other; they accompanied each other in a harmonious way, showcasing Armani’s ability to make simplicity and elegance their biggest asset.
Words by Carolina Benjumea
