LEMAIRE’s Fall/Winter 2026 presentation, mine eyes, unfolded like a lucid dream. In collaboration with theatre director Nathalie Béasse, the house blurred fashion and performance into a series of living scenes. Inspired by Béasse’s work titled velvet, the setting became a world of seduction and unease, where silhouettes emerged, dissolved, and reappeared. The experience felt contemplative and cinematic.
The women’s collection leaned into illusion as a through line. Crushed velvet turtlenecks shimmered like liquid metal, lacquered denim masqueraded as leather, and coated cottons and dry silks shifted under light with each step. The colour palette was rich in LEMAIRE staples – charcoal, chocolate, khaki, butter yellow – and juxtaposed with gleaming shades of pink, celadon, and turquoise.
As for the menswear proposition, the archetypes of Western dress, like leather and sheepskin jackets, were translated through a more fluid take. Mandarin and welding jackets appeared in supple calfskin and suede, and were paired with rolled-up trousers and sock-like leather boots, while a shaggy vest sat underneath a floating trench coat.
Hybrid pieces, like quilted skirts that double as capes or blankets, nodded to domestic surrealism, joined by accessories that felt equally oneiric, from big furry bags to shell-like charms and starburst brooches. The atmosphere further persisted with the garments featuring prints of surrealist works by illustrator Roland Topor, decorating knee-high boots with a block heel or delicate silk shirts with a funnel neck.
Words by Martin Onufrowicz
