In a season of new beginnings, Giorgio Armani’s latest collection was a definitive goodbye. Coinciding with the 50th anniversary of the brand, the show was the last we’ll ever see of Mr Armani’s groundbreaking vision. And what a vision it was. His take on clothing didn’t just revolutionise the way we dress; it reimagined the way we interact with fashion. And yet, despite his impact, he refused to follow the mythology of the fashion designer. He wasn’t an artistic prodigy or a master of reinvention. Mr Armani believed in his fashion philosophy.
Just above the venue of the show, an exhibit displayed his theories quite plainly. Clothes that were designed for real life, that prioritised both form and function. Spring/Summer 2026 feels true to his legacy. This was, in a way, like so many Giorgio Armani collections in the past. It followed a comfortably familiar rhythm. First, the greige looks, presented mainly in pairs. Softly tailored jackets and lightly pleated pants moved softly with the body, offering no resistance. Eventually, the palette grew darker, introducing silk asymmetrically draped sets and reflective jackets before dipping into a sea of navy blue. The palette and silhouettes matured into something exotic: a cerulean dress softly jotted out at the hips, a mandarin-collared, cropped shirt was encrusted with crystals over its petroleum silk.
It was everything a collection that both celebrated and grieved Mr Armani should be. The show ended with a collection of intricately crystalised dresses, the last of which – a deep blue set – was breathtaking. As the picture of the designer shone in silver crystals on the model’s chest, his portrait and gaze immortalised, it became impossible to keep our eyes dry. What a life! What a legacy!
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
