Following an assured womenswear that re-established Givenchy's foundations, Sarah Burton turned her attention to menswear for the first time at the house. Spring/Summer 2027 marked her debut men's collection. Rather than distancing herself from Givenchy's recent, streetwear-inflected identity, Burton carefully began reconciling it with the maison's storied heritage.
Tailoring was outstanding. Even if that comes as little surprise from a designer like Burton, who has spent much of her career perfecting the craft, its execution here was impeccable. A white coat stood out in particular, its front folds naturally forming a sculptural lapel, a deceptively simple construction that showcased the designer’s precision. It was tailoring at its most intelligent.
It wasn't all business, though. Classic tailoring staples were given subtle twists throughout the collection. Crisp white shirts were finished with jewelled cufflinks, while a pale blue button-down featured a removable collar.
Elsewhere, a brilliant, high-shine yellow coat brought a striking burst of colour. The embroidered rose motif, first introduced in her debut womenswear collection for Givenchy, returned here. Gone were the loose threads that previously extended the embroidery into three dimensions. Instead, the motif was fully integrated into the garments themselves, covering both a sharply structured coat and a bomber jacket in dense, all-over embroidery.
Still, for as rooted in couture as the maison is, Givenchy's past decade has been deeply immersed in streetwear. Burton approaches that legacy cautiously at first. A black coat conceals a vivid blue tartan lining before opening to reveal a matching shirt and trousers in the same pattern. As the collection progresses, she leans further into that language with a series of leather tracksuits in black, pink, yellow, red, and green, each complemented with matching voluminous sneakers.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
