Jacquemus introduced its Fall/Winter 2026 collection, titled Le Palmier, inspired by the hairstyle popularised in the 1980s, and now worn by Mia, his daughter. This inspiration resonates with mothers and young girls around the world, something deeply ingrained in the essence of Jacquemus. This playful inspiration was accompanied by silhouettes drawn from the 1950s.
Presented at the Picasso Museum, the collection introduced a feminine allure dominated by hourglass figures and theatrical shapes. Some silhouettes recalled Dior’s New Look, while others felt more modern and playful. Overall, the collection evoked sensuality at its core.
The masculine wardrobe was classic and restrained, consisting of tailored bermudas, jackets, and the timeless tuxedo, while the real drama emerged through the feminine silhouettes: puffed sleeves, ruffles, polka dots, capes, and form-hugging pieces.
Sculptural volumes complemented by organic shapes were at the centre of the collection. Cinched waists, wide hips, and midi lengths signalled a return to the classic silhouettes of the 1950s, while transparencies gave the collection a modern edge.
Some looks were complemented by structured, XXL dramatic hats, while others were styled solely with Le Palmier. Deconstructed pieces, such as the statement red dress, showcased technical precision and theatricality, while other designs highlighted movement and fluidity through light fabrics.
The collection felt glamorous and distanced itself from the youthful image of the Jacquemus girl. This season, she became a femme fatale through smart tailoring and garments that fit the body like gloves, creating a sexier vision of the brand.
Words by Carolina Benjumea
