With his debut at Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti brought the house back to its core: an obsession with precision. The Spring/Summer 2026 collection appeared deceptively simple at first glance – slim sweaters with pencil skirts, boxy coats over tapered trousers, dresses anchored by kitten-heeled oxfords. Yet, the refinement lay in the details and construction. Skirts and trousers featured Lucio Fontana–inspired slashes and purposeful creases, transforming minimalist staples into subversive statements. Sweaters revealed subtle openings at the back, lending a sense of sensuality and ease. Even the coats, cut with an intentional “messy” cinch, created a striking tension between structure and lightness.
The palette was equally considered: cobalt-blue dresses, hot-red sheer knits, and raw-edged baby-pink silk dresses with an almost ethereal quality to them. Vibrant accents peeked through the house’s signature black, grey, white and navy — whether as fitted jumpers layered beneath or socks slipping out under cropped trousers. Bellotti also showcased his mastery of leather, honed during his tenure at Bally, with sharply tailored blazers and coats in black, ocean blue, and butter yellow. Accessories followed suit: a range of sculptural, covetable bags, with our particular favourites being those distinguished by bold, contrasting straps.
Words by Martin Onufrowicz
