If there are two things we can expect from a Louis Gabriel Nouchi collection, it’s literary references and sexual tension. His Fall/Winter 2024 show was no different. Titled BEL AMI, the French designer drew inspiration from the classic Guy de Maupassant novel of the same name. The story follows Georges Duroy, a journalist's corrupt rise to power through the manipulation of his sexuality.

The show’s theme was taken to heart, from its location – a hollowed-out bank – to its accessories. The symbol of the coin was central to the collection, featured in ties, shoes and rings, but perhaps most effectively in bracelets that, when tucked into trousers, gave the illusion of coins spilling out.

Besides the literal interpretations, the opulence of the social climbing story was shown in clever ways. The luxury of fur was evoked through patterns that cleverly mimicked it. Long, thick coats dragged on the floor as the models walked, often with nothing but underwear and a tie underneath.

The brand's classic tropes were on full display. Tailored pieces emphasized the shoulders of their wearers while reducing their waists. Loungewear pieces were translucent, even sexy. The strong hints of sexuality throughout the collection were only enhanced by the impeccable casting LGN is known for. In an industry that often skirts discussions around male body representation, the Parisian brand leads by example.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI FW24

TBT_BTB_ARchive

// LATEST //