In Kim Jones' Dior, collaborations reign supreme. However, for the Maison’s menswear Fall/Winter 2024 collection, inspiration came directly from the British designer’s bloodline. Renowned photographer Colin Jones often collaborated with ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev. Sixty years later, his nephew referenced the performer through the Dior lens.

Ballet flats, crumpled berets, A-line shorts: the collection felt like a luxurious take on the imagination of a ballet dancer. Inspired by Nureyev’s style both on and off stage, the offering exuded an elegant simplicity. It was wonderfully neutral, except for the occasional pop of colour. Jones’ interpretation of a dancer’s wardrobe is ironically vivid.

Arguably the most exciting aspect of the collection came at its tail end. No, not the rotating structure that had the models centrifugally spinning, but its couture capsule. After seasons of teasing a couture collection for men, Jones finally pulled the trigger. Crystal-embellished knit cardigans, unbelievably ostentatious kimonos – it was a definite feast. In an industry that still ties men’s elegance with ties, Jones dared to dream a little bigger. The collection's pinnacle came with Debussy gown-inspired embellishments on transparent blouses and matching sets.

Words by Pedro Vasconcelos

DIOR MEN FW24

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