Fashion is a snake hungry to consume itself. With a community that tends to isolate within itself, it’s easy to create in a derivative way. Louis Gabriel Nouchi always makes a point to contradict this tendency. Often finding inspiration in books or movies, the designer tailors his design language to the narrative worlds of others. This season, he found his muse in David Lynch’s Twin Peaks. Spring/Summer 2027 borrowed the mood of the series rather than its imagery, building a wardrobe where familiar garments felt slightly out of place.
As usual, tailoring provided the collection's foundation. Nouchi introduced what he called the "broken suit", separating pinstriped trousers from checked jackets and pairing formal pieces with garments that disrupted their expected context. The designer’s system challenged tailoring as a signal of certainty. A suit became a flexible system rather than a fixed uniform. A mismatched suit, a shortened proportion or an unexpected fabric combination shifted the meaning of otherwise familiar clothes.
Proportion played an equally important role. Strong shoulders and generous lapels established structure, while cropped trenches and short shorts (or, at times, no pants at all) reduced the formality of the silhouette. Nouchi continues to explore masculinity by exposing the body. Shirts were left open, knitwear cut with deep necklines.
The expanded womenswear offering followed the same logic. Dresses, tailoring and sheer layers shared the same proportions and construction principles, both empowering and exposing the body.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
