Simplicity runs through most collections in the ongoing Paris Fashion Week. As designers read the proverbial room of the times, the trend seems to be to pull back. But Jonathan Anderson proves that the shifting aesthetic sensibilities don’t necessarily mean tedious clothing. The designer focuses on daywear in Loewe’s Spring Summer 2024 collection, taming his usual surrealist approach.
The fluidity of beautifully draped skirts was at odds with the constriction of interesting cocoon knits that immobilized the model’s bodies.
Anderson brought back fan-favorite designs. The Polly Pocket like rubberized pieces made a comeback, this time in less amusing silhouettes and colors. The cotton candy palette is replaced with drearier colors: gray and dark green t-shirt and shorts sets are the natural evolution of sickeningly sweet skirts and polos.
It’s clear the designer envisions a unisex season, with some crossover pieces from the men’s collection presented earlier this year. Both dress shirts and heavy-knitted jumpers are tucked into extremely high-waisted trousers, distorting the body’s proportions.
But, besides the inspiration of previous designs, Anderson also introduced the next it silhouette a (literal) boxy top with flowy bottoms. An astounding yellow gown has a post it like neckline, contrasted by a cascading skirt of the same tone.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
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