Writing about Pharrell Williams’ work at Louis Vuitton calls for a recognition of the perspective he brings to the house. Williams embraces the position of creative director in a way that reflects his understanding of fashion as part of a broader creative ecosystem, not just the production of garments. With that in mind, the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2026 collection felt especially compelling in its focus on confident, well-executed clothes.
At the Louis Vuitton Foundation, an indoor villa served as the setting for a collection filled with wardrobe staples. The show opened with powerful tailoring. Strong shoulders, long hems, nipped in waists. Almost immediately, the formal is tempered by technical functionalism. Hooded parkas replace blazers on top of ties. Shirts are embellished or crumpled, a feat ingeniously achieved through aluminium in the fabric.
There were elements of fun, of course – it’s still Vuitton, it’s still Williams. Shiny vinyl hid the classic LV monogram. Long coats were tied at the neck in wool pussy bows, the same that, in cropped leather jackets, were made from long belts. But, even in these moments of whimsy, pragmatism seeped through. Maybe it’s a sign of confidence. After more than two years, Williams is surer of himself, more comfortable letting clothes carry the performance.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
