Seán McGirr had one thing in mind for his fourth collection at McQueen: sensuality. The Irish designer presented a show far removed from the clean aesthetic, instead focusing on Y2K sexual allure. The collection displayed a kind of provocation comparable only to early 2000s shows, where the body and skin were revealed through tailored and structural clothing.
What was interesting about the collection was its contrast to current times. The overall aesthetic is maximalist and edgy: it speaks of provocation, sexuality, and freedom, and is far from the constrained looks that Gen Z has adopted. Clean-girl aesthetics, minimalist dressing, and quiet luxury speak of a conservative and traditional fashion, whereas McGirr’s McQueen was all about liberation from those ideals.
This collection marked the return of trends that had disappeared from the fashion radar. Low-waisted trousers and crop tops were all over the runway. However, it was the revival of the bumsters and the visible strappy G-strings that gave an edgy and bold touch to the collection. This silhouette, characteristic of Lee McQueen’s late ’90s shows, has been one of the most iconic of the designer and of the 2000s street style era.
Historical references were translated into a modern language. Corsetry was at the centre of the looks, but far from creating a restrained figure, it was showcased with confidence and assurance. British army jackets were cropped and presented in a myriad of ways. Deconstructed dresses and shirts displayed a messy aesthetic, while leather appeared throughout the collection in the form of tight dresses, adding extra edge.
Some feminine elements were also translated into the bold visual language of the brand. Florals appeared throughout the collection in prints and 3D tops, giving a certain gothic touch. Ruffles created movement and romanticism. Parachute silk dresses and multicoloured gilded feather gowns made a dramatic entrance.
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection was all about the body and confidence. The looks elongated the female figure, giving women a self-assured and powerful feeling, shifting today’s cultural and social conversations about sensuality, aesthetics, and taste.
Words by Carolina Benjumea
