Casey Cadwallader returns this season to unveil Mugler's Spring/Summer 2025 collection, offering a sharp, symmetrical vision through the lens of a botanical aficionado. Florals for spring? Absolutely. But this is Mugler, where we can expect nothing less than expertly executed, structurally reimagined designs with a touch of sci-fi.

In celebration of the house's 50th anniversary, Cadwallader has meticulously dissected the garden, sowing the seeds for a collection that honours five decades of creativity. Ladybugs and beetles take centre stage, crawling their way into the intricate construction of corsets, blazers, and dresses. The necklines are sharp and deep—a reminder that to cultivate a vibrant garden, one must first dig into the Earth. Mugler’s signature fierce hip and shoulder pads are ever-present, and as strong as ever. The standout pieces? Short dresses adorned with dissected floral appliqués, where the cross-sections and movement of flowers serve as the designer’s muse. Though the overall tone of the show is dark and determined, bursts of colour and vivid fabric details bring brightness to each look.

A foggy black dress emerges midway, enveloping the model like a cloud of mist as if fumigating the blooms. A transparent raincoat adorned with crystal orbs follows, suggesting that rain or shine, these flowers demand admiration. Geometric grids printed on dresses and blazers, paired with matching shoes, emphasize the bold, reimagined Mugler silhouettes. The collection masterfully highlights anatomy—the delicate structures of flowers, insects, and models alike.

Cadwallader’s dialogue with the archive is apparent throughout, yet audacious elements like pearl accents, spotted prints, and coordinating green army and denim sets breathe fresh life into the designs. The collection offers a cultivated bouquet of florals, both thorny and fragrant—a refined yet daring arrangement that is unmistakably Mugler.

Words by Gabrielle Valda Colas

MUGLER SS25

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