A master in the art of suiting, Sir Paul Smith has been a wearer of the garment for as long as he can remember. Influenced by the dressing habits of his own grandfather, who used to opt for a suit in most scenarios, including going to the beach and standing in the sea, Smith’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection was a celebration of tailoring memories, reinterpreted and adapted to this day under a practical and still refined lens.
Crafting the perfect suit for hot weather often requires a visit to the label’s archives. Inspired by Paul Smith’s softened and deconstructed tailoring, an important shift in menswear emphasised by the British designer's work throughout the ‘80s and ‘90s, design directors Helen Holmes and Sam Cotton revisited the idea this season by experimenting with fully unbuttoned shirts, loose ties, and slouchier silhouettes.
To ditch rigidity a bit further, clothing was placed on the catwalk conveying a slightly worn-in aspect – made to live in, to cherish, to last. Fabrics were airy, lines were gentle, colours were contrasting, like opposites that clash yet still attract.
Along with the classic soft greys and beiges, bright whites, and navy blues, there was plenty of room for mint and forest greens, butter yellow, and darker but tropical florals, as well as deep purple and lemony hues, the latter mostly seen on vibrant socks peeking out of croc-embossed loafers.
Patterned knitted vests and cardigans, printed silk ties, and quirky leather hats added a touch of summer playfulness to the lineup, as did the lapel brooches and bag charms, which resembled beach keepsakes and fishing gear.
Another fundamental premise for the collection included a white linen suit that Paul Smith himself once wore and stained while harvesting grapes in Tuscany to help a farmer. Suddenly, wearing a suit, even under the sun, looks and feels extremely cool again.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
