Just hours before Dario Vitale’s debut for Versace, the brand teased the collection on Instagram with a striking triptych shot by Tyrone Lebon. The campaign featured an Adonis-like hunk with the brand name strategically emblazoned across his body, an androgynous (and ripped) model lounging in nothing but a jewel-encrusted vest, and a close-up of black heels adorned with a Medusa-ring detail. Together, the images conjured an updated '80s-inspired fantasy — decadent, sensual, and unmistakably Versace.
The show itself unfolded at Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, Milan’s oldest museum, where Vitale staged a baroque spectacle to match the grandeur of its surroundings. His vision drew directly from the house’s late-’70s and early-’80s beginnings, revelling in excess and deliberate provocation. Jewellery was oversized, colour combinations were intentionally clashing, and styling leaned into opulence. A pair of lavender capris, cinched with a black belt adorned with an oversized gold buckle, was layered beneath three ultra-sleeveless shirts. A plunging, knee-length dress with power shoulders was paired with sharp red stilettos worn over white socks, while a classic skirt suit was reimagined in gleaming black leather.
In menswear, tailoring was a highlight. Cropped and oversized vests came embellished with Western-inspired silver details, while tailored suits were matched with rolled-up shorts and wide ties pinned with an assortment of brooches. The brand’s signature naughty streak remained front and centre: tight, high-waisted jeans cut to emphasise the bulge, undone trousers held together with leather cock rings, and classic white tank tops reimagined with a daring backless cut.
Words by Martin Onufrowicz
