// UTILITY DELUXE AT SALVATORE FERRAGAMO //
Showing his sleek and precise collection within Florence’s magnificent Piazza della Signoria, Paul Andrew made the wise decision not to compete with its baroque surroundings, opting for elegant and fuss-free clothes instead.
Andrew had utility garments in mind, albeit elevated with ultra-refined fabrics and beautiful finishes. Work wear and military shapes looked current and stylish, relieving us from the usual sportswear styles and over-embellished tricks. His take on tailoring was confident and desirable, but the attitude was always relaxed. For instance, he paired a distinguished, 3 button pale green suit with casual suede espadrilles and cool sunglasses. The overall mood of the show stuck to this “let’s not try too hard” formula and it definitely paid off.
Biker detailing complemented sleeveless jackets for men and overalls for women, reminding us of Bryan Ferry’s nonchalant elegance. It was no wonder that Roxy Music’s “Love is the Drug” opened the show, as you could imagine the British singer rocking every piece. Andrew used paper thin lambskin in sensual ways, such as a tight-fitting pair of caramel colored jeans, which were styled with a ribbed, buttoned-up knit top. For women, he also used crochet knitting, nicely avoiding the bohemian trap to turn it into a modern technique.
Hooded parka jumpsuits were worn by men and women alike, often layered under short lightweight jackets. To make a point that his clothes for the House were timeless, approachable and flattering, Andrew had an amazing casting, spanning several generations, ethnicities and attitudes. His color palette was also enticing, from warm oranges and soft pastels to soothing purples and royal blues. Ferragamo fans will be pleased to know that there are gorgeous -and rather large leather bags- to lust after next season, in striking shades of aubergine, terracotta, green and tan.
// ROCK’N’ROLL HEDONISM AT SAINT LAURENT - Men's SS20 //
Anthony Vaccarello was in a sensual and seductive mood with the menswear show he unveiled in Los Angeles last night for the iconic House of Saint Laurent.
There are, in fact, several connections between the brand, Vaccarello himself and the city’s spirit, which brings bohemian nonchalance to mind. The Belgian has been traveling to California on many occasions since his teenage years, and he used a striking beach backdrop to showcase his precise vision of the Saint Laurent man.
Referencing Mick Jagger’s androgynous silhouette and his provocative style in the early 70s, the collection focused on glamorous tailoring, which was sharp but often embellished to give it a fresh and precious feel. While black dominated the color palette, shine and transparency were key within the show, keeping the simplest looks enticing. A double-breasted glitter pinstripe suit looked chic and effortless, while sheer caftans, harem pants and burnoose capes recalled Saint Laurent’s heady Marrakesh period, which was filled with laughter, parties and sumptuous decadence.
The strength of Vaccarello is to take that vision and bring it into modernity. Jackets were paired with tight, cut-off denim shorts, while bombers were covered in sequins, but worn with simple sneakers. A black shrunken waistcoat -embroidered with black beads- was styled over a crystal embellished satin shirt and paired with black skinny jeans. Mingling with the press after the show, Vaccarello confessed he had tried every single piece on and that he couldn’t wait to wear most of it. Now, that’s always a good sign.
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/ Words by Philippe Pourhashemi /
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