There are very few Haute Couture maisons that have undergone as many seismic changes as Balenciaga. Founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga in 1919, his vision of fashion was traditional, feminine, sculptural, tailored, and technical. He enjoyed creating clean lines through minimalist designs, transforming the way women dressed.
Demna was appointed creative director in 2015, and since then, his era has been characterised by an ironic, maximalist, and futuristic view of design. His collections created drama, excitement, scandal, and strong reactions among the public. Exaggeration, distortion, deconstruction, and provocation were the premises of Demna’s tenure. It became hard to imagine Balenciaga without him — without the chunky shoes, the puffer jackets, and his ironic bags.
Last night, a new era of Balenciaga began. Pierpaolo Piccioli took the helm of the fashion house with his distinctive romanticism, emotional design, and poetic theatricality. Without a doubt, one of the most awaited shows of the season, the event felt like a rebirth and a reset, without losing the essence and core values of the label.
The show opened with a series of black-and-white looks that felt minimalistic, well-constructed, and tailored to perfection. Column and cape dresses were refined, clean, and romantic. A masterclass in modern ease and movement, the collection celebrated volume and flow. Oversized shirts, long blazers, and wide trousers created sculptural silhouettes that never seemed heavy — the body was enveloped in breathable clothing that invited freedom. Fringed pieces amplified motion, swaying with each step, while bubble-hem mini dresses added a playful contrast. Colour became part of the brand’s new visual vocabulary, with bold shades of yellow, purple, red, and pink injecting vibrancy into the fluid forms.
Several looks explored volume and asymmetry: oversized shirting, cropped tops with flowing skirts, and exaggerated shoulders, creating a contemporary translation of Cristóbal’s constructions. Draping and layering were executed in a smart and refined fashion. Demna’s aura was felt through small accents like glasses, contrasting long gloves, and leather jackets that added a hint of edge.
The show lacked the wit and ironic commentary of Demna, but indulged us in beautiful constructions and rich designs. Pierpaolo’s approach felt closer to the founder’s vision, while imprinting Piccioli’s signature poetic sensibility, taking us back to the elegance of the very beginnings of modern fashion.
Words by Carolina Benjumea
