Andreas Kronthaler presented his vision for Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection at l'Institut de France. For this season, the designer fused baroque opulence, punk deconstruction, and modern romanticism. The collection was a bridge between modern and historical, with silhouettes that merged 18th-century dramatism with 21st-century irreverence.
Anarchic layering and gender-fluid tailoring were at the centre of the collection, creating that distinctive Westwood silhouette. Characterised by a blend of statement pieces, the looks were eclectic and exaggerated, offering a defiant perspective on fashion. The looks played with different design languages, resulting in a visually exciting collection. Proportions, textures, colours, and prints were mixed and matched, breaking all the rules of every style guide ever created.
Traditional gender boundaries in clothing were completely blurred — a nod to Westwood’s history of challenging conventions. For men, suits were given a feminine touch through pastel hues and light fabrics; for women, suits appeared in larger sizes with strong shoulders.
Kronthaler has been able to transmit Westwood’s passion for historical dress through his own vision and a modern touch. Crinolines, corsetry, and voluminous skirts evoking 18th- and 19th-century aristocratic dress were given a sensual twist. Sometimes deconstructed, sometimes styled with modern pieces, and at other times infused with a feminine flair, these pieces are central to the distinctive design vocabulary of the brand — now feeling fresh and renewed.
Asymmetric hems, distressed fabrics, exposed seams, socks with shorts, clashing prints, and mixed textures gave the collection an unpolished, unfinished aesthetic reminiscent of punk and the rebellious soul of the brand and its founder. The show was closed by supermodel Heidi Klum, wearing the bridal dress — this time reimagined as a babydoll adorned with sequin feathers, giving a more intimate and delicate twist to the traditional gown.
Words by Carolina Benjumea
