Olivier Theyskens' debut show for Boloria, the Belgian designer’s newest creative direction fashion project, was filled with a touch of dreamlike fantasy. But not the conventional type. Theyskens, known for his penchant for a dark yet romantic aesthetic, brought the vision to the luxury brand backed by the Tomorrowland group that he has been working on for the past two years.
Opulent, big, dark-shaded ballgowns opened the catwalk, according to the designer, as an allegory of dreams and surrealism, a representation of vastness and space. The black and midnight blue dresses were followed by more classic, mostly slouchy, tailored pieces, embodying the transition from dream to reality, from waking up to rushing to start the day.
The latter was mastered through a sense of draped undone-ness, especially seen in the menswear looks, which resembled a rushed morning when you jump out of bed, bedding included, put on a shirt, roll up your trousers and try to find a coat that will do the trick. The styling naturally played a key role here, with the tips of ties untucked, trouser hemlines tucked into socks, turned cuffs, and underwear thoughtfully peeking out.
Using the archetype of characters who are about to leave their houses, Theyskens also wanted to create a feeling of unknown time and space: their dressing manner, a clever mix between formal and laid-back, was as current as it was timeless, surpassing decades and enduring in taste.
Womenswear was highlighted using purposefully messy-looking tailoring techniques, too, but stood out beyond that with short- and long-sleeved fluid slip dresses cut on the bias, and a few textured skirt suits paired with turtleneck tops or matching button-downs.
Colours were mostly neutral, including black and white, grey and silver, navy, and all sorts of beige, brown, sand, and caramel variations. A pair of striped pale blue trousers resembled pyjama pants, and a salmon knitted vest was one of the few brighter pieces spotted.
On a side note, ‘Boloria’ is a name inspired by the biological group of brush-footed butterflies that share the same nomenclature. Metaphorically, a butterfly is seen as a signifier of transformation and freedom. Theyskens knows we need both.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
