Closing Milan Fashion Week, Leo Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani, Giorgio Armani’s menswear creative director and the label’s head of womenswear, respectively, opted to join forces. While Dell’Orco presented his Spring/Summer 2027 menswear lineup for the Italian legacy brand, Silvana Armani showcased her latest cruise collection. Men’s and women’s looks were blended smoothly, all of them inspired by the Mediterranean atmosphere.
“The Mediterranean, long a place of encounter and exchange, is an open universe shaped by stories, cultures and inspirations that intertwine through travel and the transformation that every experience brings,” read the Mediterranean Market collection notes.
Classic Italian tailoring will always be the foundation of Giorgio Armani, but now it seems like there is progressively more and more appetite for a touch of newness. Take, for example, the denim-looking shirts, which were actually ultralight shantung silk. Or the predominance of more washed-out colours and sandy hues, made to look and feel like lived-in fabrics – a common theme of this and previous seasons.
Speaking of colour, they were drawn from the Mediterranean landscapes, architecture, and lifestyle and transformed into a familiar Armani palette: whites resembled sun-scorched stone shades, while cobalt and midnight blues referred to the sky and the seas. Muted gold referenced glistening sunlight, and spice and earthy tones shared the space with dark blue florals and other cool-toned pieces, added to convey the shade of Italian porticoes.
When unveiled, Armani collections often follow a clear order, normally evolving from day-to-day, more casual garments into eveningwear and black-tie or timeless suiting. This time, it wasn’t different: fluid lines and a larger presence of denim, which dominated the catwalk and opened the show, slowly gave room to all-black trousers and jacket sets and suits.
Lapel brooches, another seasonal favourite of multiple menswear luxury labels, appeared in various looks, often in the shape of zodiac signs such as Scorpio, representing Dell’Orco’s sun, and Cancer, a nod to Giorgio Armani’s star sign. The approach was also previously adopted by Silvana Armani in her collections and perhaps will stay as a continuous way to pay homage to the late Armani. There’s no need to look closer, though; his legacy remains.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
