Anthony Vaccarello seduces easily. That much is expected. What remains interesting is how the designer continues to find new objects of desire. For Spring/Summer 2027, it wasn't spectacle or provocation that carried the collection forward, but the subtle interjection of masculinity.
The designer’s engagement with queerness has long been central to his work at the maison, especially as it pertains to menswear. In previous seasons, Vaccarello has referenced icons like Robert Mapplethorpe or even Yves Saint Laurent himself. This season, however, queerness surfaced less through explicit references than through the archive and the subtle reference of womenswear codes.
Classic tailoring provided the foundation. Gold buttons on sharply cut jackets were opulent, certainly, but they also carried a distinctly feminine charge. Elsewhere, jewelled embellishments twinkled across slim two and three button jackets, introducing softness into otherwise traditional silhouettes. At first glance, the pieces appeared conventionally masculine, but from a far, the little twinkling buttons relieved that pressure. The idea was reinterpreted in a tailored jacket adorned with a gilded button shaped like a spiky flower.
The push and pull of classic and playful is at the centre of Vaccarello’s work. Like womenswear before, sportswear becomes a means to that end. Pastel nylon parkas were tucked neatly into tailored trousers, reconsidering notions of informality. Granted, these were given the Saint Laurent treatment, with padded, rounded shoulders. Backstage, Vaccarello described sportswear as a new frontier.
Apropos of the heatwave that has come to define this season’s shows, the collection featured knitted and leather briefs. Perhaps not so appropriate for the heat, but equally as interesting, were the see-through derbies seen on multiple models. On the topic of footwear, elongated toeboxes and reptilian quarters were undeniably strong.
The show concluded with a trio of golden looks. A rounded-shouldered coat, a gleaming suit and a belted trench coat capped off the hottest show of the season – literally.
Words by Pedro Vasconcelos
