“What does it mean to see and to be seen? This question lies at the heart of womanhood,” wrote Australia-born, London-based designers Laura and Deanna Fanning as part of the opening lines for their Fall/Winter 2026 womenswear Kiko Kostadinov collection notes. The query was posed alongside the concept of an observer and observed, derived from the act of gazing attentively at the presence of nature, more specifically, birds, even amidst the chaotic life of grand urban centres.
Other sources included Fitcher's Bird, one of the Brothers Grimm’s fairy tales, as well as the 1992 namesake photographic book by American artist Cindy Sherman, which retells Grimm’s story through a visual and haunting narrative. The season’s general theme of exploration, as well as the collection’s rich colour spectrum and its feathered details, were all inspired by the two references.
While various designers sometimes struggle to give real women what they actually want when it comes to fashion, the Fanning duo seem to effortlessly nail it, show after show. Exhibit A is the collection’s focus on modular items, crafted from fabrics and designs that adapt accordingly to what the customer needs. Exhibit B lies with the development of utilitarian and practical trousers, lightweight waistcoats, and jackets, all with pockets that can carry everything from notebooks to binoculars. Exhibit C, as if the previous two weren’t enough, are practical, tailored silhouettes borrowed from menswear – if they've always moved and taken space with freedom, so should we.
Drawn from nature and the skies were also the collection’s shades, prints, and patterns. Gradient greens with brown and yellow accents, light, medium, and deep blue tones, powder pinks, oranges, and burgundy variations formed the FW 26 palette. Iridescent and light-reactive pieces made an impact, such as the draped skirts seen on looks 11 and 13, as well as the loose-fitting, golden dress chosen to end the show.
Fanning’s birdwatching efforts, too, resulted in a constant feeling of lightness and liberation through the clothes' chosen materials and design techniques, as if the weightless nature of fluttering sleeves, flowy skirts, and fluid dresses allowed some of the garments to sway while worn. The looks were often a hybrid, the perfect analogy to female multitudes: undoubtedly as beautiful as birds, yet protected by layers of utilitarian outerwear, as any adventurous, untamed spectator would be.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
