A Lemaire show is good for the soul. Staged at the Opera Bastille in the 12th arrondissement, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection finds beauty in contradiction, where opposing forces coexist seamlessly. Matte surfaces meet subtle shine, while rigid tailoring softens into flowy draping. Across both womenswear and menswear, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran continue to refine a wardrobe balancing practicality with a poetic sensibility.
For menswear, the designer duo imagines a tropical-appropriate wardrobe stripped of clichés. Lightweight tailoring, wrap shirts inspired by the yukata and reworked Mandarin jackets speak to a fluid exchange between cultures. Transparent fabrics, airy cottons and relaxed workwear silhouettes embrace heat and ease of movement. A sandy grey set is paired with an elegant take on a flip-flop sandal, while an oversized tie-dye silk shirt evokes the most spectacular sunset. The colour-blocking is refined, creating a soothing feeling: a blue shirt sits underneath an olive blazer, worn with a pair of roomy trousers in muted brown.
Womenswear looks to the liberated spirit of the 1970s, translating its romanticism into a contemporary language. Delicate blouses are draped elegantly and feature an interesting wrap-around detail at the collar. Their flowy nature is juxtaposed with structured skirts that reach the knee and are open on the side. Psychedelic prints, tactile fabrics and adjustable proportions bring softness and spontaneity, while dreamlike artworks by Claudine Wick lend an atmospheric sensuality to mesh jersey, jewellery and clogs.
Throughout the offering, playful details – a pine cone transformed into an earring, a cigar ash weight reimagined as a pendant – capture the brand’s enduring fascination with the subtle moments of surprise that elevate everyday sophisticated dressing. The result? A vision that creates a world more comforting than the best sound bath ever could.
Words by Martin Onufrowicz
