At the Palais de Tokyo, as is customary, Rick Owens played with the open space of the venue to create a ramp above the water, where models walked surrounded by fountains.
Rick Owens shows always feel introspective, and Spring/Summer 2027 explored the idea of threat, risk, and danger. As per his show notes, this season the designer was thinking about the idea of training: “We are all processing menace, some of us arm, some of us train.” The collection had all the Owens’ codes: an unmistakable dystopian, end-of-the-world feeling expressed through leather pieces, a monochromatic palette, architectural silhouettes, distressed textures, and exaggerated proportions.
Sharply tailored pieces and cocoon-like volumes coexisted with sweatpants, body-hugging garments, balloon-like inflated forms, capes and cage-like pants. This amalgam of styles created a scenario of experimentation and a showcase of the designer’s creative vision, while still considering functionality.
Long coats that extend below the knee introduced a sense of fluid movement throughout the silhouette. They create dramatic proportions while elongating the figure, adding a refined elegance to otherwise utilitarian ensembles.
Sharp shoulders, narrow waists, extended lengths, deep lapels, precise tailoring, and deconstructed garments defined the silhouettes, while cut-out pieces created a sense of chaos and disorder. Low-waist pants emphasised elongated, clean silhouettes, and when paired with the brand’s signature towering boots, created column-like figures. The designer also debuted its new collaboration with Adidas, featuring a slouched boot-sneaker, marking one of the brand’s first high-performance running-inspired pieces.
Words by Carolina Benjumea
