“Browsing through an album is like caressing an immaterial patina that relegates even something from just yesterday to the realm of memory,” read Magliano’s Spring/Summer 2027 press release, its opening line teasing Luca Magliano’s starting point for the collection. Before Magliano’s lookbook release, the Bolognese designer requested treasured family photos from his team members, inspiring enough to fuel the lineup of twenty-one looks in total.
Magliano then realised an image-based coincidence. “Photographs from the 2000s and those from the 1970s behave in the same relentless way: impossible to tell whether what is deteriorating is the medium itself, the eye of the beholder, or the very atmosphere surrounding things that-no-longer-are,” continue the show notes.
In terms of garment construction and retro references, purple and brown floral prints were clearly influenced by the ‘70s aesthetic, as was the height of the waist of multiple tailored trousers and the shape of oversized blazer jackets.
Along with knitwear, tailoring is, of course, a Magliano speciality and one of the reasons why the designer and the label received an LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize in 2023. Rooted in both Italian and queer cultures and often presented with a touch of irony and disruption, Magliano masters the art of defying gender norms through design.
SS27 included two brand collaborations, one with the heritage Italian sportswear label Diadora and another with the Austrian-founded, Italian-based eyewear label Carrera. Vintage tracksuits, crepe running sets, and everyday sunglasses, respectively, materialised in both collabs.
A few items incorporated built-in styling tricks, as if mimicking layering and shirt collars. Rolled-up jackets, shirt sleeves, and trouser hemlines portrayed a common way of coping with the heat, while scarves and handkerchiefs were transformed from simple seasonal accessories to central pieces, from bras to tops and skirts.
Besides the seventies flower motifs, prints included sheer tartan, a knitted top with a cherry pattern, and a cheetah shirt tucked into matching denim trousers, a perfect, Y2K-influenced cherry on top.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
