A modern, co-created spin on the ultimate preppy, classic tailored pieces from heritage New York City label Brooks Brothers. A mood board – and soundtrack – thought out and influenced by 1980s British musical collective Soul II Soul, resulting in clothing prints designed in collaboration with its founder, Jazzie B, and his footballer son Mahlon Romeo.
A contemporary take on some of men’s favourite summer shoes, conceived along with German footwear giant Birkenstock, where sandals and mules with maxi buckles were paired with mustard yellow and bright red socks. Only Chitose Abe can blend it all, remix it, and make it effortlessly work at Sacai.
For her Spring/Summer 2027 collection, much more centred on menswear, although with a few women’s looks in sight, Abe made garment tradition, musical history, and streetwear culture clash with grace. With the self-explanatory title The New Classics, the Japanese designer brought a subverted focus on wardrobe staples and, as she masterfully does, experimented with colour, fabric splicing, detailing, and proportion.
Examples of the latter are easy to spot, from tassels adorning traditional white-and-blue button-downs to striped silk neck accessories that sit on the body as a hybrid between a tie and a scarf. Fireman clasps were added to short-sleeved shirts and double-breasted jackets, as well as to trenches and longer coats.
Utilitarianism was organically included in the lineup, where trousers with Sacai’s signature loose fit featured generous waist pockets. Speaking of pockets galore, the detail smartly added to the show's practical preppiness. Double denim in dark wash also graced the catwalk with a sort of rosette-inspired striped pocket square/brooch, also seen on summer shirts and leather jackets.
Archival and album images from Soul II Soul were transformed into a grainy, grey collage pattern, used to craft a tailored suit and matching shorts set, as well as a clasped button-down. Printed t-shirts equally paid homage to the group, with Abe wearing one of them to take her bow after the finale. Jazzie B and Mahlon Romeo were sitting front row to witness Abe’s magic, along with musician and Louis Vuitton menswear creative director Pharrell Williams, a Sacai supporter from the very start.
Words by Ketlyn Araujo
